I know everyone has spent all their time thinking about what to make for holiday meals, but I’m still eating dinner every day.  Having the resources to nourish ourselves is reason enough to celebrate with something tasty.  It’s New Year’s day but I’m celebrating something else: It’s a good day to be hungry.  Here’s what’s on the menu.

Black beans with bacon and grapefruit:  Simple and striking.  The grapefruit becomes subliminal in this dish.  Exotic, floral, with just enough bitterness and acidity to let you eat the whole pot without knowing why.  With bacon the dish becomes luxurious.

Arroz verde: the traditional soak and pan-fry method for Mexican rice, enhanced with spinach and cilantro.

Plantains: squishy ripe, sauteed in butter.

black beans with bacon and grapefruit, arroz verde, sweet plantains

The best way to make sure the plantains are ripe is not by color alone, but by squeezing them gently.  They should feel like a ripe peach.  If not, let them sit out on the counter for a few days, or alternately if you started to peel them and found it difficult to do so, slice thinly and fry in plenty of oil over medium high heat until reddish brown, remove to a paper towel and salt for a savory addition to the meal.

for the beans:
6 oz. bacon, diced
2 cups dried black beans
5 cloves garlic, peeled
salt, to taste
1/2 grapefruit, juiced

for the rice:
2 cups rice (brown or white)
1/2 medium onion, roughly chopped
3 cloves garlic
6 sprigs of cilantro, stems included
2 oz fresh spinach (about 3 good handfuls)
1/3 cup oil (high heat)
3 to 3 1/2 cups vegetable or chicken broth, well salted

for the plantains:
2 ripe plantains (yellow and black, and soft to the touch), peeled and thickly sliced
1-2 tablespoons butter

black beans with bacon and grapefruit:
In a heavy 2 quart pot fry the bacon until crisp.  Remove to a plate, and pour out most of the bacon grease, but reserve 1-2 tablespoons in the pot.  Add the beans and garlic to the pot, along with 6 cups of water, and bring to a boil.  Reduce to a simmer, and allow to cook over low heat until almost tender.  This could take 1-3 hours depending on the freshness of the beans.  (In the meantime, start the rice.)  When almost tender add salt to taste.  Continue cooking until beans are soft and tasty .  Add the bacon back to the pan, as well as the juice from the grapefruit.

arroz verde:
If using brown rice, bring a pot of water to a boil, add the rice and cook over high heat for 11 minutes.  If using white rice, soak the rice in hot water for 5 minutes. Drain.

In a blender, add the chopped onion, garlic, cilantro and spinach, along with just enough water to puree.  Blend until completely smooth.

In a large saute pan, heat the oil over medium high heat.  Shake the rice to remove as much water as possible.  Add the rice, and turn the heat up as high as you can tolerate.  Stirring constantly, fry the rice until it picks up a light color.  If there are any pools of oil left in the pan, tip to one side and pour out, or use a paper towel to blot.

Return to the heat and add the puree, continuing to stir until the rice is almost dry again.  Add 3 cups of broth, turn down the heat to low and simmer until rice is cooked, adding an extra 1/2 cup of broth if needed.

sweet plantains:
Melt the butter in a saute pan over medium to medium high heat.  Add the plantain slices and cook until soft and nicely browned.

Inexplicably delicious and blissfully simple.  It can’t get any better than that.  Oh, wait: my kids were fighting over bites from my bowl the next day.

This is a great basic recipe -perfect on it’s own, but it is also great for improvising if you’re into that.  You could go very Latino with this dish, adding cilantro stems or epazote to the beans while they cook, frying chopped tomato with the onions for the tiganissi, or topping the dish with avocado.  Or you could use black-eyed peas and chard and flavor it with lemon (skip the honey), as in my original inspiration for this dish (Cypriot Black-eyed Peas and Swiss Chard from World Vegetarian by Madhur Jaffrey.)  The basic formula is cooked beans and greens with a splash of something sour, topped with fried onions and garlic in oil.

black beans and kale with tiganissi

Tiganissi is a type of garnish I’ve found in recipes from Cyprus, in which onions and other vegetables are quickly fried in plenty of oil and poured over a dish, resulting in unbelievable amounts of flavor.

for the beans and kale:
1 1/4 cup black beans, uncooked
1 bunch kale, stems removed, leaves chopped into small pieces
salt, to taste
1/4 cup lime juice, or to taste
small spoonful honey (or agave for vegans)

for the tiganissi:
1/4 cup olive oil
pinch of red pepper flakes or 1 jalapeno, minced
1 medium onion, finely diced
3 cloves of garlic, minced

cooked rice, to serve

Put the beans in a large heavy pot, cover with several inches of water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the beans are almost cooked through, about 2 hours, but start checking sooner.  Add the kale and salt, to taste. Simmer until both the beans and kale are tender. Add the lime juice and honey to taste, as well as more salt if needed.

Heat the oil for the tiganissi in a medium frying pan over fairly high heat. Add the red pepper flakes or jalapeno, and stir for about 5 seconds. Add the onion and garlic. The temperature of the oil is important. You want the onions to turn brown around the edges. If the temperature is too cool, the onions will caramelize evenly, which is not what you want for this dish. The cooking should not take very long. Pour the tiganissi over the beans, and serve mixed with rice.

Around the world, there is a great divide between local restaurant cuisine and local home cooking.  And maybe I’m biased because I’ve never been able to afford three star Michelin restaurants, but I’m a home-cooking girl.  Sure there are great affordable restaurants everywhere, but they have their limits.  At the end of every day, wherever I am, I really just want a home-cooked meal.  If I can’t have it, I’ll settle for a plate at a restaurant with varying degrees of satisfaction.

So if I tell you that I didn’t fall in love with Spanish food after living in Spain 6 months maybe you can forgive me, because I never got a home-cooked Spanish meal.  I had some unforgettable fare, to be sure: my first Spanish tortilla, fried eggplant, tapas at a crowded bar, bocadillos with jamón Serrano or chorizo and churros with thick hot chocolate.  But honestly, the best Spanish food I’ve had has come from my kitchen these past couple of weeks.  Mostly because of Penelope Casas’ extraordinary book La Cocina de Mamá: The Great Home Cooking of Spain.  I’ve already remade every recipe I’ve tried, and can’t get enough.

So here’s a paella recipe from the book, like nothing I tried while in Spain.  My adaptations of using a short-grain brown rice instead of white Bomba rice and a cast-iron pan instead of a traditional paella pan make it slightly less authentic, but it’s everyday home cooking and it’s delicious.

Isabel’s vegetable paella

adapted from La Cocina de Mamá: The Great Home Cooking of Spain by Penelope Casas

I honestly prefer brown rice here, just be sure to use a short-grain variety.  And a quick tip that I’ve used here: to substitute brown rice for white rice, bring a generous pot of water to a boil, add brown rice and cook for 10 minutes, then drain.  Use as directed for white rice in nearly any recipe.

2 carrots
2 small celery stalks, or the heart with leaves
1/2 medium onion
4 oz. shitake mushrooms cleaned, stems only (reserve caps for the paella)
1 clove of garlic
4 cups water
1/8 teaspoon saffron
salt, to taste

Roughly chop the vegetables, and put in a saucepan with the water.  Bring to a simmer, cover and cook 20-30 minutes.  Remove the vegetables and discard.  Add salt to taste.  Add the saffron, cover and turn the heat down very low, or off completely.

1 1/4 cup short-grain brown rice
1/3 cup olive oil
1 cup frozen lima beans, thawed
1 medium carrot (3 oz.) scrubbed and chopped into 1/2 inch pieces
reserved shitake mushroom caps, chopped into 1/2 inch pieces
1/4 lb. green beens, chopped into 1/2 inch pieces (about 35 beans or 1 heaping cup chopped)
2 red bell peppers, chopped into 1/2 inch pieces
6 oz. zuchhini, choppeed into 1/2 inch cubes (1 1/3 cup)
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup chopped whole canned plum tomatoes
1 teaspoon pimentón de la Vera- sweet smoked Spanish paprika

In a large saucepan, bring a generous amount of water to a boil. Add the rice and cook, continuing to boil for 10 minutes.  Remove any scum that comes to the top. Drain. Let continue to drain in a colander until ready to use.

Preheat the oven to 400 (gas) or 450 (electric).  Heat the oil in a large 12-14 inch cast iron pan over fairly high heat (just one less than the highest setting).  Add all the vegetables except the garlic and tomato.  Cook for about 10 minutes, stirring regularly until the vegetables pick up some nice color and are crisp-tender.  Add the garlic and cook 2 minutes more, still stirring.  Add the tomato and paprika, and continue cooking for a minute more.  Taste for salt.

Add 3 cups of the broth and the rice, reduce the heat and simmer about 10 minutes, until the rice is getting relatively soft.  If needed, add the remaining broth.  There should be enough to finish cooking the rice.

Transfer to the oven, and cook about 10(gas) to 15(electric) minutes more, until nearly al dente.  Remove from the oven, cover with foil and let sit 5-10 minutes until the rice is cooked.  Return the pan to the stovetop and cook undisturbed over high heat for about 3 minutes until a crust (the socarrat) has formed on the bottom .

When I saw a recipe for “Snobby Joes” in Veganomicon by Isa Chandra Moskowitz and Terry Hope Romero, I rolled my eyes.  I don’t like Sloppy Joes, and I don’t like imitation anything.  But then I read the clever intro about Snobby Joes feeling superior for not eating meat, and when I saw they were based on lentils, they got me.  The best part is that I actually like them far more than any meat version I’ve tried.

But I’m a little  embarrassed to be talking to you about Sloppy Joes.  And I’ll be honest: if I hadn’t just come back from vacation, I probably would have waited to find a more impressive recipe to post.  But I think you are getting the good end of the deal.  This recipe hits the spot and comes together fast for a weeknight meal.

I did change up the spices a little here.  I didn’t mean to, but the first time I tried this I was out of chile powder, and used a mole-inspired spice blend with ancho.  The results were delicious.  The traditional flavor of Sloppy Joes came through, but the cocoa powder added some depth and the spices gave it some intrigue.

vegan Sloppy Joes (a.k.a. Snobby Joes)
adapted from Veganomicon by Isa Chandra Moskowitz and Terry Hope Romero

2 cups dried lentils
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large yellow onion, diced
2 green peppers, diced
4 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons ancho chile powder
1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 1/2 teaspoons  cocoa powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon dried oregano (preferably Mexican)
2 teaspoons salt
15-16 oz. can tomato sauce
6 oz. can tomato paste
2 tablespoons maple syrup
2 tablespoons prepared mustard
8-12 rolls, to serve

In a medium-large pot, cover the lentils with approximately 8 cups of water.  Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook until lentils are just soft, about 20 minutes.  Drain, and return to the pot.

In the meantime, heat the oil in a frying pan and add the onion and green pepper.  Cook over medium heat until softened, about 7 minutes.  Add the garlic and cook one minute more.

Add the vegetables to the lentils and stir in the spices, sugar, cocoa powder, tomato sauce and tomato paste.  Cook over low heat for about 10 minutes, until the mixture starts to meld.  Stir in the maple syrup and mustard, cover and let rest off the heat for 10 minutes more.

Serve on toasted rolls.

I take bean dishes for granted. To me, they are the go-to meal-foundations that boneless skinless chicken breast recipes used to be, before I came to my senses. When I don’t know what to cook, I put on a pot of beans, like I used to defrost a chicken breast or two. Beans take a little more planning if you cook them fresh, but there’s no nasty raw meat mess to carefully clean up, and they taste better. Sure, the chicken breast might have a chance if it weren’t stripped of the dignity of skin and bones, but as-is, it’s beans every time for me. Plus the beans cook unattended with plenty of time to figure out what to put with them. And a tip: you don’t have to soak them before cooking. You might end up with a few broken beans, but who cares?*

My bean routine is as follows:
-measure out about 1/2 cup of dried beans per person (main dish portion)
-cover with about 3 times as much water, (less if they have been soaked)
-bring to a boil, reduce to simmer, let cook on low for 2-4 hours
-salt ONLY when they are almost cooked through (salt toughens the skins and prohibits the water from softening the beans during cooking.)
-check every hour, as convenient, to make sure the water is covering the beans, and stir

The creative part is adding aromatics to the beans while they are simmering. This time I added dried New Mexican style chiles, (a good substitute for the sweet Spanish Nora chile), plenty of unpeeled garlic, and a few sprigs of herbs. A couple of onions got caramelized, some eggplants braised until silky smooth in just enough tomato sauce, and some no-knead bread was popped in the oven.  Chickpeas on their own have an amazing pot liquor, but the chiles made for a deeply flavored dish that I couldn’t get enough of.  I just about cried when Romeo offered the leftovers to his dad.

If you are having trouble getting excited about chickpeas or pintos, check out Rancho Gordo’s heirloom beans.  Steve Sando’s enthusiasm is contagious. (And adding “heirloom” to any ingredient makes it sexier, not to mention “Indian woman.”)

*Cannellini (not to be confused with navy) beans are the exception -they fall apart- so soak them first for salads.  Other applications should be fine.

Spanish-style chickpeas and eggplant with caramelized onions

2 cups dried chickpeas
7 cloves garlic, unpeeled
3 sprigs parsley, plus more for garnish
3 New Mexican dried chiles
10 sprigs thyme
2 onions, sliced
2 large eggplants
14 oz. can whole plum tomatoes or 6 fresh plum tomatoes, chopped
olive oil, about 1/3 cup, separated
salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Put the beans in a heavy pot and cover with plenty of water (about 6 cups.) Bring to a boil, then reduce to a low simmer. Add garlic, parsley, chiles, and thyme. Cover and let cook for 3-4 hours, but check after two. (The time can vary depending on the age of the beans.)

Caramelize the onions: heat a frying pan over a medium-low burner. Thinly coat the bottom with olive oil and add the onions. Cook slowly until the onions first become very soft, and then pick up a reddish-brown color. Set aside.

Peel (if you like) and chop the eggplant into slightly large bite-size pieces. Cook in a generous amount of oil with a sprinkle of salt. When the edges soften and the flesh is glossy, add the tomatoes and juice. Cover and simmer for 1 hour or until very soft.

When the beans are approaching tender, add salt to taste -don’t be shy. Let cook about 15 minutes more, then remove the garlic, parsley, chiles and thyme stems. Squeeze the garlic out of the skins and scrape the flesh of the chiles, return both back to the pot.
Add the beans to eggplant mixture, check for seasoning and let simmer 15 more minutes. Top with caramelized onions and flecks of fresh parsley leaves.

Hearty but not gut-busting, summer is a great time to install chickpea flour in your pantry.  With Mark Bittman on my side (or am I on his side?) it might already be there.  Toasting it like a roux creates a deeply nutty flavor base and thickener for soup.  It’s the perfect new friend for broccoli, which usually can’t drag itself away from cheese and cream, which are loyal friends, but sometimes it needs to mingle with others.

While I was waiting for my second planting of cilantro to grow, I thought it might be fun to experiment with the blossoms of the first planting.  They are so pretty and have a distinct flavor, like green coriander - unexpectedly different from cilantro leaves.  The combination of lemon balm and coriander blossoms is perfect- spicy and refreshing.  But if you can’t get both lemon balm and coriander blossoms I wouldn’t hesitate for a moment to make this soup with basil.  It might be less exotic sounding, but no less delicious.  And  the soup actually lends basil a really special note and revives its sometimes over-used flavor.   So it’s up to you- basil or lemon balm and coriander blossoms.

broccoli and toasted chickpea flour soup with lemon balm and coriander blossoms

8 cups water
1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup chickpea flour
2 lbs. broccoli, trimmed and chopped
salt, to taste
7 cloves garlic, unpeeled
1 1/2-2 lemons, juiced
1/2 cup lemon balm leaves, chopped
10 heads coriander blossoms, chopped, plus more for garnish

Put the water in a tea kettle, and bring to a boil.  In the meantime, heat the oil in a soup pot over medium heat.  Add the chickpea flour and stir, scraping the bottom until it becomes a shade darker.  Very slowly add the water from the kettle, using a whisk and stopping to beat until smooth when a thick paste forms.  When all the water is added, put the broccoli and salt in the pot and bring to a simmer.  While the broccoli is cooking, toast the garlic on a comal or cast iron pan until the skins are charred and the inside is soft.  Peel the garlic and mash the cloves with a little water from the soup pot.  Taste the soup for salt -you may have to add quite a bit- making sure it’s tasty (although it will get better soon).    Squeeze in the lemon juice, and add the lemon balm, coriander blossoms, and mashed garlic. Puree in a blender or use an immersion blender.  If it is too thick add a little more water -you want it to be the consistency of cream of broccoli soup.  It it is too thin, let simmer until it thickens.  Serve alongside bread with a head of coriander blossoms floating in the soup.

Years ago Romeo went to Malta for a study abroad program and brought me back a tiny book: Cooking with Maltese Olive Oil by Matty Cremona.  It seemed like a pretty lousy gift, even to Romeo, whose best thought was “well, I guess this fits the bill.”  For being a cookbook, it doesn’t have much in the way of recipes, and even the 18 or so salads she explains read more stream-of-consciousness than detailed-guide to a particular dish.

It took me years to finally dig in -you have to know your shit to make some of these suggestions work.  But what I see now is a hundred clever ideas disguised with boring names like “courgette (zucchini) salad.”  Under this particular entry is list of ingredients for one of the best marinades/salad dressings I’ve ever tasted.  You can use it to simply marinate zucchini.  But I wouldn’t stop there.  I’m using it to marinate mushrooms, pour over lightly boiled vegetables, brush over vegetable (and meat) kebabs on the grill and to marinate lamb or chicken.  If you find another favorite way to use it, let’s hear it.  If your the type who just wants a nice-and-neat recipe, you can’t go wrong with the warm vegetable salad spelled out below.

Maltese dressing
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 clove garlic
1/2 cup parsley leaves, chopped
1/4 cup mint leaves, chopped
1 1/2 - 2 lemons, depending on size and juiciness
1 cup olive oil
kosher or sea salt, to taste
freshly ground pepper, to taste

In a large mortar and pestle, crush the fennel and coriander seeds.  Add the garlic and pound to a paste.  Add the chopped herbs and the zest of one lemon and mash together.  Juice both lemons and stir in with the oil.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Alternately, grind the spices and then place all ingredients in a blender, or use a jar and a hand-held immersion blender.

Warm Maltese Vegetable Salad

Don’t be afraid of boiling vegetables.  As long as you check them often and don’t forget about them, they don’t have to be soft and mushy, lose their flavor or leech their nutrients.  They come out very cleanly flavored and delicious.

1 head cauliflower (this is a nice place to use yellow or purple varieties)
1/2 bag frozen peas
1/2 bag frozen fava or lima beans
1 zucchini
3-4 oz. feta or 2-3 oz. sheep’s milk feta, to taste (optional)
approximately 1 recipe Maltese dressing

Halve the zucchini lengthwise, then thinly slice into semicircles.  Add enough dressing to cover slightly and refrigerate for about 2 hours.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, and salt generously.  The water should taste as salty as a tasty soup broth.  Cook peas until just tender and tasty.  Remove from the water with a spider-skimmer or slotted spoon to a medium bowl.  Repeat with the fava or lima beans, taking care that they are no longer dry and starchy.  Repeat with the cauliflower, until just tender.  Do not over cook.

Add the marinated zucchini and all the dressing to the bowl with the cooked vegetables.  Crumble the feta into the bowl, add more dressing if necessary -don’t skimp- and toss. Serve with crusty bread.

I tagged along with my parents on a trip to Louisville, KY a couple of weeks ago.  Louisville is a charming city, and my parents are good company, especially with two little ones in tow.  So I know it’s going to sound crazy when I tell you that the highlight of the trip was lima beans.  Bruce Ucán, chef at Mayan Cafe serves them up blistered in sesame oil with toasted ground pumpkin seeds, parsley, and green onions.  I found his recipe on a local tv station website, and he was gracious enough to let me reprint it here for you.

Mayan Tok-Sel Lima Beans

courtesy Bruce Ucán, Mayan Cafe

(Tweaked a little because the recipe seemed to not scale down correctly for the home cook.  Origanal version here.)

Ingredients

serves 4:

10 oz. of frozen lima beans  (Fordhook, if you can find them)
1 bunch of green onions
1/2 bunch of parsley
Salt to taste
Lemon juice to taste
6 oz. (about a cup) of shelled pumpkin seeds
1/2 oz. (a tablespoon or two) of sesame oil

Defrost lima beans and set aside to dry.  Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees.

Chop (fine to medium) the green onions and parsley. Set aside.

Roast the pumpkin seeds in the 350 degree oven, then grind them (again, fine to medium) in a food processor.

For the next step, have all the ingredients ready as this is a quick process, similar to using a wok.

Put the sesame oil in a skillet on medium heat. When the oil starts smoking, throw the lima beans in first. Sauté them until they are brown and roasted.

Add all the other ingredients except the lemon juice and sauté for another minute. Then add lemon juice.

Ready to serve.