Pickles are one of my favorite ways to make a meal feel special.  An otherwise unispiring bowl of the ordinary seems cheerful when it shares the spotlight with contrasting bites of pickle.  It’s especially true when the pickles are just a little offbeat from the usual cucumber-based suspects.

These particular pickles are so good, that I sometimes serve them in large quantity as the main vegetable -as long as they aren’t too spicy.  The thing about buying jalapenos -especially from a grocery store- is that you never know what you are going to get.  This doesn’t make a big difference when one is chopped up and thrown in with onions in a batch of rice and beans, but when the peppers are a main ingredient, it does matter.*  My recommendation is that you commit to buying one, break a small piece off and hold the flesh to your tongue to see how fiery the batch is.  If it’s mild, buy plenty; if not make a small batch or wait until next time.

While jalapenos are traditional, I’m excited to try other vegetables as well (cauliflower would be good).  The seasoning itself does have a distinctively Mexican flavor if you’re sure to use Mexican oregano.  Let me know what you try!

*I’ve  made these pickles both so mild my toddler could eat them and so fiery, my husband’s (Mexican) side of the family could barely eat a few slices of carrot in a taco.

Mexican pickled vegetables -adapted from The Essential Cuisines of Mexico by Dianna Kennedy
10 carrots, sliced into 1/4 inch thick rounds
10 jalapenos
1 head garlic, cloves separated but unpeeled
2 onions, sliced
1/2 cup oil
4 cups MILD vinegar (I used a mixture of homemade pineapple wine vinegar and homemade white wine vinegar), or try diluting apple cider vinegar (I’d start with 3  cups vinegar to 1 cup water)
1 tablespoon sugar
2 heaping tablespoons salt
10 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
1 tsp Mexican oregano

Prepare the vegetables.  For the jalapenos, keep the stems intact. At the bottom end of the pepper cut a slit 1 1/2 inches up towards the stem, and another slit at a right angle, so that the pepper has four long strips at the bottom.
Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium heat, and cook the vegetables until the onions and peppers have wilted, about 10 minutes.  Pour out the excess oil, if any.  Add the rest of the ingredients (vinegar and seasonings) and bring to a boil.  Simmer for another 10 minutes until the vegetables are cooked through.  Remove the bay leaf and thyme stems.  If you plan to keep them for more than a couple of days, store in sterilized jars (refrigerated.)

I know everyone has spent all their time thinking about what to make for holiday meals, but I’m still eating dinner every day.  Having the resources to nourish ourselves is reason enough to celebrate with something tasty.  It’s New Year’s day but I’m celebrating something else: It’s a good day to be hungry.  Here’s what’s on the menu.

Black beans with bacon and grapefruit:  Simple and striking.  The grapefruit becomes subliminal in this dish.  Exotic, floral, with just enough bitterness and acidity to let you eat the whole pot without knowing why.  With bacon the dish becomes luxurious.

Arroz verde: the traditional soak and pan-fry method for Mexican rice, enhanced with spinach and cilantro.

Plantains: squishy ripe, sauteed in butter.

black beans with bacon and grapefruit, arroz verde, sweet plantains

The best way to make sure the plantains are ripe is not by color alone, but by squeezing them gently.  They should feel like a ripe peach.  If not, let them sit out on the counter for a few days, or alternately if you started to peel them and found it difficult to do so, slice thinly and fry in plenty of oil over medium high heat until reddish brown, remove to a paper towel and salt for a savory addition to the meal.

for the beans:
6 oz. bacon, diced
2 cups dried black beans
5 cloves garlic, peeled
salt, to taste
1/2 grapefruit, juiced

for the rice:
2 cups rice (brown or white)
1/2 medium onion, roughly chopped
3 cloves garlic
6 sprigs of cilantro, stems included
2 oz fresh spinach (about 3 good handfuls)
1/3 cup oil (high heat)
3 to 3 1/2 cups vegetable or chicken broth, well salted

for the plantains:
2 ripe plantains (yellow and black, and soft to the touch), peeled and thickly sliced
1-2 tablespoons butter

black beans with bacon and grapefruit:
In a heavy 2 quart pot fry the bacon until crisp.  Remove to a plate, and pour out most of the bacon grease, but reserve 1-2 tablespoons in the pot.  Add the beans and garlic to the pot, along with 6 cups of water, and bring to a boil.  Reduce to a simmer, and allow to cook over low heat until almost tender.  This could take 1-3 hours depending on the freshness of the beans.  (In the meantime, start the rice.)  When almost tender add salt to taste.  Continue cooking until beans are soft and tasty .  Add the bacon back to the pan, as well as the juice from the grapefruit.

arroz verde:
If using brown rice, bring a pot of water to a boil, add the rice and cook over high heat for 11 minutes.  If using white rice, soak the rice in hot water for 5 minutes. Drain.

In a blender, add the chopped onion, garlic, cilantro and spinach, along with just enough water to puree.  Blend until completely smooth.

In a large saute pan, heat the oil over medium high heat.  Shake the rice to remove as much water as possible.  Add the rice, and turn the heat up as high as you can tolerate.  Stirring constantly, fry the rice until it picks up a light color.  If there are any pools of oil left in the pan, tip to one side and pour out, or use a paper towel to blot.

Return to the heat and add the puree, continuing to stir until the rice is almost dry again.  Add 3 cups of broth, turn down the heat to low and simmer until rice is cooked, adding an extra 1/2 cup of broth if needed.

sweet plantains:
Melt the butter in a saute pan over medium to medium high heat.  Add the plantain slices and cook until soft and nicely browned.

Never sure what to do with familiar sounding root vegetables that I didn’t grow up eating (turnips, rutabagas, parsnips) I came up with this technique after seeing something similar on Emeril Green.  The variety of color, flavor and texture helps me appreciate the unique vegetables available during the winter, and makes me less skeptical of cooking seasonally when my garden has finally succumbed to

endless frost.

I dug up these parsnips just before the temperatures really took a dive.   The core was a bit woody, but once quartered and cored, they were deliciously sweet and complex.  I planted them in just one square foot of the garden, and they were growing side by side, almost touching.  A very productive square foot of dirt.

honey-glazed root vegetables

If you want, you can do the broiling ahead of time, toss with the honey butter and rosemary and finish the cooking just before mealtime, that way you can turn your attention to preparing another dish.

The one vegetable I always make sure I include is sweet potatoes.  Although the recipe would be fine without them, I like a few extra sweet bites every now and then, as well as their familiar taste.

5 lbs. mixed root vegetables and/or winter squash (whatever is available, such as sweet potatoes, celery root, parsnips, carrots, potatoes, turnips, rutabaga, pumpkin, butternut squash)
olive oil, just enough to coat
salt and fresh ground pepper
6 tablespoons butter
6 tablespoons honey (eyeball it -same volume as the butter)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary

Scrub the vegetables and chop into 1 inch pieces.  Preheat the broiler.  Thinly coat the vegetables with olive oil, and toss with salt and pepper.  Place in a broiler-safe dish lined with parchment and set on the second shelf of the oven.  Broil, turning the vegetables as they pick up nice coloring.  In the meantime, whip the honey and butter together.  When all the vegetables are browned, remove from the oven, turn down the heat to 450, and toss with the honey butter and sprinkle the rosemary.  Taste for seasoning.  Return to the oven and let the vegetables continue to cook until tender, or if already tender after broiling, cook just 5 minutes more until the flavors meld.

It’s a great time to invest in a bottle of roasted nut oil to use through the fall and winter.  Just a drizzle transforms simple baked acorn squash, but it’s also good with sweet potatoes, in a creamy cauliflower-apple soup and in vinaigrettes.  Just make sure you add after cooking to preserve the full nutty flavor,  Hazelnut and walnut are two of my favorites.

walnut maple acorn squash: Cut acorn squash in half through the stem.  Scrape out seeds and stringy bits.  Fill each cavity with 1/2 tablespoon of butter, a tablespoon of maple syrup and a tiny pinch of cinnamon (I know you’ll want to add more cinnamon, but let the other flavors shine through this time.) Place face up on a jelly roll pan.  Pour water in the bottom of the pan for steam- as much as you can reasonably transport to the oven.  Bake at 400 for an 1 hour 15 minutes, checking after 1 hour.  You want the entire squash soft and creamy and some caramelization around the rim.  Remove from the oven, and drizzle 1/2 teaspoon of walnut oil into each maple-butter pool.  Brush the liquid all over the flesh of the squash until it is completely absorbed.

Sometime I can’t resist buying produce because of it’s color: neon-green cauliflower, fire-red carrots or golden beets.  This time it was an old friend, purple cabbage.  I knew I shouldn’t have bought it for the meal I was making because I’ve only used it with German or Eastern-European meals in the form of sweet and sour cabbage with apples.  I was making pasta.  But after thinking it through I came up with a stunningly easy and versatile dish that was the star of the meal.  I’ll be making it over and over again this winter, either with red or green cabbage.  For the sweet component that purple cabbage harmonizes so well with, I used balsamic vinegar.  Although I got a little tired of balsamic vinegar for a while, I realized I was getting what I paid for, which was not much.  These days I’m still not buying aceto balsamico tradizionale, but I’m splurging for a better bottle, and using it thoughtfully.

singe-broiled cabbage

Core cabbage and cut into thin ribbons.  Toss in a bowl with just enough oil to lightly coat.  Scatter  on a foil-lined broiler pan and/or an old sheet pan in one layer -cook the cabbage in batches if necessary. Place under the broiler for a few minutes, stirring once, remove when just the edges have turned dark brown, a few caramelized pieces are nice. (If cooking in batches transfer the cabbage to a non-plastic bowl, cover with foil and set aside until all the cabbage is cooked.)
Toss the cabbage with sea salt or fleur de sel, freshly ground pepper, and some syrupy balsamic vinegar, all to taste.

A couple things are left in my garden.  Some leafy greens and herbs mostly.  I didn’t get enough use out of my tarragon this summer, but a week or two ago I made tarragon vinegar and my family went through a bottle before it even had time to cure properly.  Luckily my mother-in-law makes vinegar from wine that my father-in-law produces.  So I made up several more large bottles to take us through the year.  The vinegar tastes bright like summer, and I’m sure it will be welcome when we tire of the cold.

I’m not one for experimenting with flavored oils and vinegar, although maybe I should be.  I never think of using them when I’m following a recipe, and so they haven’t become a part of my improvisational technique either.

But tarragon vinegar is  different.  I tried it first at my grandma’s house (who has a keen palate and is peppy enough to land a husband 30 years her senior.)  It was one of those “oh!” moments.  And now it’s my favorite vinegar for a simple green salad.

So I was making tarragon vinegar, and my mother-in-law decides to try a complex recipe in which I had no interest.  But today when I tasted it, I had to hand it to her, it smelled like I was sitting at an Italian restaurant, having my server freshly grind black pepper onto my dish.  I hope she lets me use a little to experiment.

tarragon vinegar- empty a bottle of white whine vinegar into a clean bowl.  Rinse and pat dry enough fresh tarragon sprigs to fill the bottle.  Use as much as will fit easily.  Pour the vinegar back into the bottle with a funnel.  Cover and let sit 2 weeks.  Repeat the process, taking the old tarragon sprigs and replacing them with a couple of fresh ones (optional).  Use in a vinaigrette, or simply with olive oil, salt and pepper to dress a salad.

Italian herb vinegar- follow instructions for tarragon vinegar, but instead of tarragon, for every 6 cups of vinegar add 1 peeled garlic clove, 3 sprigs fresh basil, 4 sprigs of thyme, 1 sprig oregano and 25 nasturtium blossoms.   Cover and let set aside for 2 weeks.  Remove herbs, replace with a sprig or two of fresh herbs.

Last year before the neighbors cut down their apple trees (sigh), I went onto their property without asking (maybe that’s why), and picked up fallen apples, cut off the bad spots and made the most delicious applesauce I’d ever tried: just apples, fresh lemon juice, and a few gratings of fresh ginger.  I came into some more apples and made it again, this time, I had run out of lemons and fresh ginger, so I used bottled lemon juice and dried ginger.  Such a sad pot of applesauce.

As much as I had been looking forward this year to repeating that first applesauce I had made, I bought some nice plums at the farmer’s market and threw them in.  At first I regretted it.  When it was hot, the flavors were off with a strange aftertaste.  I added a little honey with the lemon juice and ginger.  I still wasn’t impressed, and resigned myself to being a purest.  The next day when I pulled it out of the refrigerator though, it was changed: full of flavor, no unpleasant aftertaste.  It actually tasted quite beautiful.  The plums added an end-of-summer flavor that bridged the fall flavor of the apples.  A very timely applesauce that made me realize there’s lots of room for improvisation with top-notch ingredients.

plum applesauce
I left the the plums unpeeled (they become tender), but you can peel them if you like.  Cut an X across the bottom, and place in boiling water for 30-60 seconds.  The peel should slip off.

5 lbs. cooking apples, peeled, cored, chopped
2 lbs. plums, peeled (optional), stones removed, chopped
honey or brown sugar, to taste
fresh lemon juice, to taste
fresh ginger, to taste

Put the apples and plums in a large pot and add an inch or two of water.  Cook over medium heat until the fruit begins to break down, stirring and adding more water as needed.  Turn the heat down to low, cover and simmer until the fruit is cooked through, mashing with the back of a spoon for a chunky texture, or putting in a food processor for a smooth texture.  Add the ginger, and continue cooking five more minutes.  Turn off the heat and let cool to room temperature.  Add the honey and lemon juice to taste, refrigerate and serve chilled.

The nasturtium plants have taken over a portion our backyard, climbing their way onto our deck with hundreds of blooms and even more beautifully dark and circular leaves.  We grew the nasturtium for the edible blossoms, but a month or so ago, I found out the leaves could be used like watercress.  Sort of.  They are deliciously peppery and tender -even the larger leaves- as such, but their shape is tricky to dress as a salad.  When left whole or even torn, the flat shape creates too many layers to permeate, and shredding them didn’t make for a very attractive salad.

But the leaves are perfect for stuffing.  No inconvenient protrusions to tuck in like grape leaves, nor tough ribs to cut out like cabbage.  Tender enough to eat raw, but sturdy enough to contain rigid fillings.  Pretty and easy.  Perfect finger food for parties, which always seem to lack enough green options.

If you didn’t grown them, nasturtium leaves might be hard to find, but they are incredible easy to grow from seed for next year.

While there are plenty of options to wrap, you can’t go wrong with fruit, cheese and herbs.  I used Honeycrisp apple slices, Gruyere and tarragon, tying up the parcel with chives and serving a walnut vinaigrette for dipping, but next time I might try pears, blue cheese and  fennel fronds.  Both would go well with several nut oils: hazelnut, pistachio, pecan.  Let me know what you come up with.

nasturtium leaf, apple and Gruyere salad parcels with walnut vinaigrette dip
If you prefer, you can omit the tarragon leaves in the parcels and use a tarragon vinegar in the dip.

20 nasturtium leaves, washed and patted dry
1 Honeycrisp apple, quartered, cored and sliced into at least 20 thin slices, tossed with lemon juice if not serving right away.
20 thin slices of Gruyere cheese, about 1/2 inch wide
1-2 sprigs tarragon (optional)
10-15 chives
walnut vinaigrette dip, recipe follows

Place a nasturtium leaf stem-side up, dark side down on your work surface.  Just above where the leaf was cut from the stem place a slice of cheese and a slice of apple, letting the apple stick up just above the top of the leaf.  Tuck in three of the thin leaves of the tarragon, one at the bottom, and two at the top.  Fold the bottom of the nasturtium leaf up over the apple, then roll from side to side.  One third of the way up tie a piece of chive around the parcel. Continue with the remainder of the leaves and serve on a platter with a small bowl of the dip.

for the walnut vinaigrette dip:
2 tablespoons sherry or tarragon vinegar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon mayonnaise (to emulsify)
2 tablespoons walnut oil
4 tablespoons olive oil (doesn’t need to be extra-virgen)

In a medium bowl, place the vinegar and salt, and whisk until the salt is dissolved.  Add the mayonnaise and blend.  Slowly add the walnut oil, whisking until completely emulsified after each addition.  Continue with the olive oil, until all is incorporated.

Inexplicably delicious and blissfully simple.  It can’t get any better than that.  Oh, wait: my kids were fighting over bites from my bowl the next day.

This is a great basic recipe -perfect on it’s own, but it is also great for improvising if you’re into that.  You could go very Latino with this dish, adding cilantro stems or epazote to the beans while they cook, frying chopped tomato with the onions for the tiganissi, or topping the dish with avocado.  Or you could use black-eyed peas and chard and flavor it with lemon (skip the honey), as in my original inspiration for this dish (Cypriot Black-eyed Peas and Swiss Chard from World Vegetarian by Madhur Jaffrey.)  The basic formula is cooked beans and greens with a splash of something sour, topped with fried onions and garlic in oil.

black beans and kale with tiganissi

Tiganissi is a type of garnish I’ve found in recipes from Cyprus, in which onions and other vegetables are quickly fried in plenty of oil and poured over a dish, resulting in unbelievable amounts of flavor.

for the beans and kale:
1 1/4 cup black beans, uncooked
1 bunch kale, stems removed, leaves chopped into small pieces
salt, to taste
1/4 cup lime juice, or to taste
small spoonful honey (or agave for vegans)

for the tiganissi:
1/4 cup olive oil
pinch of red pepper flakes or 1 jalapeno, minced
1 medium onion, finely diced
3 cloves of garlic, minced

cooked rice, to serve

Put the beans in a large heavy pot, cover with several inches of water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the beans are almost cooked through, about 2 hours, but start checking sooner.  Add the kale and salt, to taste. Simmer until both the beans and kale are tender. Add the lime juice and honey to taste, as well as more salt if needed.

Heat the oil for the tiganissi in a medium frying pan over fairly high heat. Add the red pepper flakes or jalapeno, and stir for about 5 seconds. Add the onion and garlic. The temperature of the oil is important. You want the onions to turn brown around the edges. If the temperature is too cool, the onions will caramelize evenly, which is not what you want for this dish. The cooking should not take very long. Pour the tiganissi over the beans, and serve mixed with rice.

I don’t know if I’m the only parent who routinely forgets to save food for the kids.  Around here it happens at least once a week: I get carried away enjoying my food and *expletive* it’s gone and the kids are still hungry.  After managing to cook a meal for the family, while keeping 2 eyes on the kids, I have to come up with something else.

Well, I like making my own gnocchi, but the evening inevitably ends with me staring in the fridge wishing I hadn’t been so selfish.  Doubling the recipe isn’t really an option, because of the labor involved in cooking them.  Perhaps I just haven’t gotten a good system down, but it doesn’t really make a difference at this point.

So I tried packaged gnocchi, and I’m not ashamed to say I like it.  And I can easily cook enough for the whole family with a little leftover.  This is one of those meals that I look forward to making because cooking goes so fast, it’s the perfect balance of light and filling, and bursts with flavor.

gnocchi with broccoli, tomato, olives, capers & pine nuts
serves 4

1/3 cup olive oil, plus 3 tablespoons, divided
1 3/4 lb. ripe tomatoes, chopped
generous 1/4 cup green olives, chopped
2 spoonfuls capers
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/4 cup pine nuts
1 3/4 lb. broccoli, broken into bit sized pieces, stem peeled and chopped as well
2 lbs. packaged potato gnocchi
big handful flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Heat 1/3 cup of the oil in a large frying pan over medium high heat.  Drain the excess juice from the tomaotes, if any, and reserve. Add the tomatoes to the pan and fry until tasty.  This may be as quick as 1 minute if the tomatoes are ripe and in season.  Add the capers, olives and reserved tomato juice.  Heat through.  Remove from the heat and cover.

In a small frying pan, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil over very low heat.  Add the pine nuts and garlic, and fry very gently until first the garlic is cooked through, then the pine nuts and garlic turn golden.  Remove from heat and reserve.

In a large pot of salted boiling water,  cook the broccoli until crisp-tender.  Remove with a slotted spoon or spider whisk.  Add the gnocchi to the same water and cook according to package directions, about two minutes or until they float to the top.  Drain.

Toss together the gnocchi, broccoli, tomato mixture, pine nut mixture and parsley and serve.